From an outsider's perspective, San Francisco is still very much the city it's reputed to be: The restaurant scene is alive and flavorful, boutiques abound, the Castro is the Castro, liberalism is hip, and all the goings-on in the unique neighborhoods take place against picture-perfect backdrops of famous bridges, bay vistas, cable cars, and colorful only-in-San-Francisco city life. But from an insider's view, the historic City by the Bay is striving to redefine its identity after the astronomical highs spawned by dot-commercialization and the incapacitating backlash of its downfall, the slew of new residents who packed into the city and then left when times got tough, and the effects of the September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks and the war on the ever-important tourist industry and our attitudes as a whole. The result? San Francisco is settling back into itself. Housing prices may not be "affordable," but they're headed in the right direction. Commercial and residential expansion has slowed. And the growing pains that resulted from a 7.3% population growth over 10 years in an already crowded city are starting to wane since fortune seekers disappeared along with the promise of instant riches. Plainly put, the city is more humble these days.
But that's not all bad news. In fact, it's a good thing for you -- especially since hotels and restaurants have lowered their prices in hopes of befriending the reluctant traveler; dining reservations are easier to come by; and traffic, though still prevalent, is less horrific. On top of that, you'll still encounter classic San Francisco: Feel the cool blast of salt air as you stroll across the Golden Gate Bridge, stuff yourself on dim sum, browse the Haight for incense and crystals, and walk along the beach -- all within approximately 49 square miles.
So, what can you expect from the country's most romantic European-style city, which was founded on -- and still revels in -- the pioneers' boom-or-bust lifestyle? Despite the thick fog bank that blocks out the sun most every summer, the city's stature and future indeed look bright. Like an eternal world's fair, it's all happening in San Francisco, and everyone's invited.
Politics of the City Today--Shaken but not stirred by the Loma Prieta earthquake in 1989, San Francisco witnessed a spectacular rebound during the 1990s. But the most recent shakedown originated in the modern gold rush of the Internet industry, which changed the face of the city. The seaside Embarcadero, once plagued by a horrendously ugly freeway overpass, has been revitalized by a multimillion-dollar face-lift, complete with palm trees, a new cable-car line, wide cobblestone walkways, new restaurants, and a skating, biking, and walking promenade. SoMa, the once-shady neighborhood south of Market Street, exploded with new development. It's home to the Museum of Modern Art; the beautiful and attraction-packed Yerba Buena Gardens; the überluxurious Four Seasons and W hotels; a slew of hip clubs, cafes, and condos; the new baseball stadium; and, most influential, the wake of once-thriving dot-com companies. And in tourist and shopping mecca Union Square, a newly gussied-up central plaza makes for a far more scenic dose of retail therapy. In short, even though San Francisco may be bearing the brunt of the recent economic hiccup, the city is still bustling these days.
Of course, San Francisco has typical big-city problems -- and then some. Homelessness and panhandling have gone largely ignored. Those with enough funds to buy a spacious home in most parts of the U.S. can't afford a one-bedroom condo here. Rental units are still expensive enough to have changed the city's demographics: Artists, young transplants, and others seeking an alternative lifestyle can no longer afford to move here and sustain their lifestyle. Parking is beyond a nightmare, even in the outer neighborhoods. Congestion and impatient drivers make cruising the town an anxiety-ridden and very slow ride.
Some credit Mayor Willie Brown, the legendary ex-speaker of the house in California's State Assembly, for the changes, both good and bad. On some levels, since he was voted into office -- and reelected after an interestingly close runoff against openly gay Board of Supervisors president and activist Tom Ammiano -- things have been looking up for the city. During his first term, Brown gave just about every member of former Mayor Frank Jordan's administration the boot. Then he administered steady doses of shock therapy to his proud but oft-troubled city. But has he been effective? Public transportation, always a thorny issue, is still beleaguered, but it's on the slow road to improvement. Homelessness is no longer a crime, and shelters and work programs are on the rise, although it's hard to stomach the lack of care for street dwellers when so much money is flowing through the city. Meanwhile, in this highly political town, critics still insist that the mayor is nothing more than a showboater with too many big-business connections who's turning the city into a Hollywood caricature of itself.
But as a whole, San Francisco is doing just fine. Its symphony is in the black, restaurants' cheaper prices woo locals to dine out, and though many of the newly rich residents lost it all in the stock market, many argue it's been a good thing for the city. We needed a little reality, not to mention elbow room for those making under six figures.
Anyone who remembers the old, liberal, truly progressive, and funky San Francisco knows those days are long behind us. But even without the alternative edge, San Francisco rightfully retains its title as Americans' favorite city destination.
